Cooking with Crosby Roamann: Fresh Pea Soup with Ricotta Gnudi

What inspires us about Fresh Pea Soup? Spring. There is something un-refusedly optimistic about this dish. It comes at a time when Summer has just begun and we can sometimes feel a bit melancholic – as if the ennui of the dog days of summer comes rolling in and we just can’t find that beach read we need to laze away the days along the shore. Enter this easy recipe, and a few Ricotta Gnudi, and perhaps a good hunk of garlic bread for dipping, and we’re right as rain.

Our pea season starts in earnest usually in March and will often last until mid-July. During this time, we harvest pounds of large green pods, shell them, eat most of them raw (and in salad) and save the rest for this lukewarm soup.

We first tasted Fresh Pea Soup at the inimitable Glen Ellen Star in Sonoma County. Chef Ari’s version is made with Parmesan-rind stock and garnished with Ricotta Gnudi, which we have adapted. I wish I could explain the wholesome flavors and decidedly-umami texture of Chef Ari’s original version – a blend of fresh green pea notes with a backstrap of verve from the Parmesan stock.

Our knock-off is, admittedly, a bit of a mash-up – inspired by and hopefully true to the original that inspired us but cobbled together with an homage to the Barefoot Contessa.

• 2 tbspn unsalted butter and olive oil
• 2 cups leeks, white and light greens cut 1/2 inch pieces
• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped finely
• 4 cups (2 boxes) chicken stock
• 1 parmesan rind
• 2 cups fresh peas (or 1 package frozen peas, or a mix of both)
• 4 sprigs fresh mint, leaves chopped finely
• 2 tspn Kosher salt
• ½ tspn fresh black pepper ground
• ½ cup crème fraiche
• ½ cup chives, chopped very thin

• Bring the stock and the Parmesan rind to a light simmer for 15 minutes. During this time, shell your fresh peas, and have a glass of wine!
• Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan and sauté the leeks and onion with a dash of kosher salt till just tender.
• Add the onion medley to the chicken stock. Add the peas and half the mint and bring up to high heat, then gently simmer 15 minutes more (3 minutes for frozen peas)
• Remove from heat and let chill slightly.
• Using a hand blender, blend the soup to a semi-fine consistency.
• Plate lukewarm soup in a shallow, wide bowl.
• Garnish with a dollop of crème fraiche, and two or three Gnudi, with a pinch of chives and fresh mint.

• 2 ounces Parmesan cheese, finely grated (about 1 cup), plus more for serving
• 2 (15 to 16-ounce) containers whole-milk ricotta cheese (about 4 cups)
• 2 large eggs
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 cups all-purpose flour, divided

1. Finely grate 2 ounces Parmesan cheese (about 1 cup) and place in a large bowl. Add 2 containers whole-milk ricotta cheese (for a total of 32 oz.), 2 large eggs, 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper and mix well. Add 1 cup of the all-purpose flour and stir well with a large spoon.
2. Dust a rimmed baking sheet with 1/2 cup all-purpose flour. Use a size 40 (1 1/2 tablespoons) cookie scoop or two spoons to scoop out golf ball-sized gnudi and gently drop them onto the prepared baking sheet. You should have between 35 and 38. Sprinkle the gnudi generously with the remaining 1/2 cup all-purpose flour. Transfer the baking sheet to the refrigerator to chill for about 20 minutes.
3. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
4. Remove the baking sheet from the refrigerator and, using a flat or fish spatula, gently drop half of the gnudi, one or two at a time, into the pot of boiling water, trying your best not to scoop up too much excess flour in the process, though scooping up some is fine. Boil until the gnudi float and are firm to the touch. 3 to 5 minutes.

Inspired by Chef Ari Weiswasser of the Glen Ellen Star and adapted with notes from the Barefoot Contessa and thekitchn.com (recipe attached).